Wellington on a plate

This was the Aviation Royal, recreated as food – a biscuit infused with gin, maraschino and topped with crème de violette ‘caviar’.

We were at Motel bar for a preview of the Wellington on a Plate festival’s Cocktail Canapé Crawl accompanied by our host, chef and food writer Ruth Pretty. Ruth and co-host, bar owner Justin McKenzie, run the cocktail event, which has proved incredibly popular in previous years – providing an unintimidating opportunity to get a taste of Wellington’s expert mixology and buzzing nightlife.

This August, Ruth and Justin will again take small groups of food tourists on an evening trek around Wellington city, stopping at Hooch, Motel and Hawthorn Lounge to sample the innovative creations of their skilled bartenders. With a nod to the food side of the festival, they will be matching a specially prepared cocktail with a canapé designed to complement each drink.

The Cocktail Canapé Crawl is just one element of the 2011 Wellington on a Plate festival. Now in its third year, the festival runs from August 5 – 21 and has expanded to include 105 restaurants and 82 food-focused events. The programme is packed with as many puns as mouth-watering food propositions, indicating the creative whimsy with which the region’s chefs and restaurateurs are taking up the challenge to create some fascinating, epicurean adventures.

Ortega Fish Shack is one of the restaurants which has signed up again for 2011, collaborating with a Featherston producer of old-fashioned gourmet lemon products. Mary Biggs, founder of Lavender’s Green and regular Ortega patron, has used the bountiful local supply of organic Meyer lemons and Cordon Bleu training to expand her range to include the exotic flavours of preserved lemons and roast lemon chutney. Ortega’s four-course menu will showcase these products, playing on the natural pairing of seafood and lemon.

As the festival encompasses more than just the Wellington CBD, we journeyed over the winding Rimutaka ranges to the Wairarapa, where many of the festival’s
hero ingredients and matching wines are produced.

The low cloud lifted as we pulled into Parehua Estate, nestled in an idyllic scenic sandwich between tranquil countryside and regimented vineyard rows. As guests, not only did we get to experience the luxurious indulgence of suites with open fireplaces and private outdoor hot tubs, we also got to taste renowned resident chef and owner Kent Baddeley’s exquisite food.

Our six-course dinner was, quite literally, unlike anything I have ever eaten. There is no menu. Baddeley spontaneously prepares each dish based on the produce he has available and what he feels like cooking on the day.

Parehua’s contribution to Wellington on a Plate is more down to earth and somewhat quirkier than the decadent feast we experienced. The estate is hosting a hummus-making competition where entrants can take on the unassuming chickpea in a quick-fire cook off.

Also returning in 2011 is one of the previous year’s most popular events: Burger Wellington. Running for the duration of the festival, the burger challenge sees restaurants from around the region pitting their culinary skills against each other to win the public text vote for their creative take on food in a bun. Hot contenders from our sampling include the Bisque on Bolton’s paua burger with lobster mayonnaise, and Plum’s Angus beef burger with pancetta, beetroot relish and Kapiti blue cheese.

The Festival is not entirely about excessive eating. There are many opportunities for foodies to expand their culinary repertoire, from walking food tours to wine workshops, pastry making and spice blending master classes. Zest food tours will be running dual behind-the-scenes kitchen visits, taking small groups ‘backstage’ to two of Wellington’s most iconic fine-dining establishments – Logan Brown and Martin Bosley’s – to reveal the processes and artistry behind their award-winning food.