The wondrous island of Tiritiri Matangi can be found 30km northeast of central Auckland in the Hauraki Gulf. Although flush with native trees and plants, the real draw card of this sanctuary is the incredible birdlife that repays their patrons ten-fold in beauty and birdsong.
You’d be forgiven for thinking this paradise location is a living time capsule, with kōkako, little spotted kiwi, hihi, wēta and tuatara flourishing in numbers, untouched and preserved. However, this little island has been on quite a journey. What is now green and bountiful was once a barren landscape with just a smattering of trees. Aerial photos from 1940 reveal the extent of the devolution due to 600 years of human habitation and farming. But luck would strike when John Craig from the University of Auckland arrived on Tiritiri Matangi in 1974 to study released kākāriki (red-crowned parakeets) and uncovered other species that were rare and even extinct from the mainland.
Together John and plant ecologist Neil Mitchell rallied and gained much-needed support, and in 1982 a management programme was set in place for the island. They even roped in the outgoing lighthouse keeper and his wife to stay on as guardians. Fast forward to present day and a steady stream of volunteers, DOC rangers, conservationists, researchers and educators endeavour to keep this dream alive, placing Tiritiri Matangi on many travellers’ bucket lists.
Rain or shine you can hop onto an Explore ferry, departing from either Auckland CBD’s Viaduct Harbour or from Gulf Harbour Marina (on Whangaparāoa Peninsula) for a short and comfortable cruise on the glorious Hauraki Gulf.
After disembarking, be prepared for a quick bag check as this open sanctuary is only visitable by sticking to the biosecurity rules that protect the wildlife from harmful invaders. Zip-up bags and sealable plastic lunchboxes help to reduce the chance of unwanted critters hitching a ride with you. Footwear and clothing also need to be clean and soil / seed free, and any rubbish taken home with you.
With the formalities over, there are choices to be made: stretch out on golden sands and swim at Hobbs Beach or meander along the well-maintained, pushchair accessible walking tracks. These range from a 10-minute jaunt to a three-hour adventure, and it is well worth downloading/printing a scavenger hunt or sensory activity for the kids from the Tiritiri Matangi website before heading off. Check out the grand lighthouse or enjoy a guided tour with the knowledgeable and effervescent volunteers. These tours are a real highlight of the trip and can be pre-booked when purchasing your ferry ticket for an additional $10 per adult and $2.50 per child.
Find out about pōhutukawa tree rivalries, how a language barrier prevented bird integration and how that was resolved. Visit feeding stations topped up to sustain the birdlife when fruit and flowers are less available. Little peak-boxes allow you to spy on nesting little penguins, while the wēta hotels can be opened up to see who has checked in.
Although summer usually affords the best weather and the blazing red pōhutukawa blooms are out in force, each season has its own merits. By autumn the birds have finished their moult and are looking their best. In winter the flowering kohekohe steals the show, and the little penguins are home to nest. Golden kōwhai flowers signal the start of spring, coinciding with the courtship season where the birds put on a real show and the dawn chorus is heavenly.
Overnight accommodation on Tiritiri Matangi is available in the former lighthouse keeper's cottage, consisting of three bunk rooms sleeping up to 15 guests; it is well-equipped for a comfortable stay.
