The English tourist could hardly contain her excitement. “I saw this place on TV a couple of weeks ago, I can’t believe I’m here!”
We were at Nin’s Bin, the takeaway spot with a history as grand as its view of the Pacific Ocean and a menu that showcases crayfish freshly landed off the owner’s boat.
The iconic blue and white caravan has been a roadside feature north of Kaikōura since 1977.
Our road trip had begun in Nelson Whakatū, with an early detour just 15 minutes after leaving the city to check out Cable Bay. A small climb up the hill overlooking the sheltered bay led to an information panel with details of the origins of the tiny settlement’s name, so called after the telegraph link to Australia came ashore here in 1876.
The Skywire is a must for thrill-seekers in Cable Bay. Photo by Tim Cuff.
En route to the main highway were signs for a very different type of line – one of the world’s longest flying fox rides at Cable Bay Adventure Park. The 1.6km-long Skywire speeds thrill-seekers across stunningly beautiful native forest.
We continued up towards the Whangamoa Saddle, slowing for every swing and hairpin, allowing time to soak up the beauty of the steep valleys and forested peaks.
At the turning for Okiwi Bay is a sign to Rai Valley Cottage. Dating back to 1881 its tōtara slabs, cut on site by Charles Turner, have weathered many storms with dignity. Now cared for by the New Zealand Historic Places Trust Pouhere Taonga, a glance through the windows of this characterful building gives a snapshot of Charles and his family’s life, with the table set for dinner and nightgowns airing over the bedsteads.
Rai Valley Cottage is a historic site worth exploring. Photo by Tim Cuff.
By the time we’d reached Pelorus Bridge we were ready for a leg stretch and strolled the short river access trail through tall beech trees, small rimu and a chorus of cicadas. We came upon a family with small children who’d set up with boogie boards, lifejackets and shade on the stony bank alongside the clear emerald water.
At Havelock we explored the tiny but fascinating museum, where Aunt Sally, a magnificent 1893 Barclay locomotive stands guard outside. She was one of three engines used to carry native timber from the valleys, no easy feat considering that between 1864 and 1939, millions of tonnes of it were shipped from Pelorus Sound.
Every year this town fizzes with excitement as crowds gather to celebrate the Havelock Mussel & Seafood Festival. At the Slip Inn on the water’s edge, the greenshell variety features prominently on the menu; from the nearby jetty the scenic Mail Boat cruise departs, an attraction in its own right but also a lifeline which carries supplies to remote coves.
We passed fields of dairy cows, horses and tree-fringed cottages with sunflowers as tall as their eaves. It didn’t take long before the landscape of forestry and farming switched to a vista of vines.
Magnificent vistas of vines in Marlborough. Photo by Tim Cuff.
Marlborough is renowned for its cellar doors, but it was Omaka Aviation Heritage Centre we’d pinpointed as an absolute must on this journey. Billboards outside detailed privately-run airborne experiences, including a ride on the world’s last flying Avro Anson Mk1 WWII coastal reconnaissance bomber. This is the setting for the biennial Classic Fighters Omaka Airshow which, with a backdrop of the golden Wither Hills, draws crowds of tens of thousands.
We soaked in the history, strolling first through the scenes in the Knights of the Sky exhibition, showcasing the development of aircraft through the Great War of 1914-18. The planes on display are from the personal collection of film director Sir Peter Jackson. The dioramas which help tell the stories behind the planes, were built with magical creativity by Wingnut Films, complete with incredibly realistic mannequins created by Wētā Workshop. Alongside, the WWII Dangerous Skies aviation exhibition showcases static and flyable aircraft, including a Messerschmitt, Lockheed Hudson and de Havilland Mosquito.
Next door is Omaka Classic Cars, a collection of 115 original vehicles from what the owner calls ‘a special period of motoring’, the 1950s to 1980s.
Heading southbound the road drew closer to the parched hills, slips revealing the friable sandy land beneath the sun-bleached grasses. It seemed incredible anything could grow and yet we were still passing acres of lush vines.
Not far past the turnoff for Molesworth Station is Seddon, the heart of the Awatere Valley. Hawks soared above us as we wound our way through undulating fields of vines as far as the eye could see. A white limestone road led to the lookout with spectacular views towards the Marlborough Sounds, Cape Campbell and the North Island.
The curving road dances next to the railway line. Photo by Tim Cuff.
While the cellar doors looked tempting, we continued on, past a confection of pink – the landscape created by the saltworks at Lake Grassmere. Diverting off to Ward Beach, a stroll to the striking spherical rocks had me wondering why these curious geological features aren’t as well-known as the Moeraki Boulders.
On through the hills, it wasn’t long before we caught sight of the glinting blue ocean again, waves crashing spectacularly onto rocks out at sea, sending white foam and spray skywards. We were to follow this breathtaking view for many kilometres, flirting with the railway line that links Picton to Christchurch as we danced back and forth across each other’s path.
Tall cabbage trees became a familiar sight, with pops of colour from roadside red hot pokers glowing in the sun.
At The Store, at Kēkerungū, the café’s barista was working flat out. Many patrons had sat at tables overlooking the lawn, neatly manicured and lined by agapanthus and karaka trees laden with berries.
This road not only offers a spectacular view of the ocean, but also an insight to the feats of engineering that enabled this route to re-open following the devastating 2016 Kaikōura earthquake. Giant metal canopies guard from falling rocks and at Ōhau Point Lookout a lengthy walkway offers a great viewing platform to the seal colony that calls this home.
As we pulled up, tourists were hurriedly piling off a coach to film seal pups playing in the rockpools, buffeted by surges of the pounding waves.
The coastline at Kaikōura is rugged and beautiful. Photo by Tim Cuff.
Wet-suited surfers enjoyed the swell further along the coastline. We reckoned they would be refuelling after their rides at nearby Rākautara, where Nin’s Bin was doing a roaring trade in whitebait patties. The excited English tourist I’d met was more interested in trying one of the fresh crayfish fetched in that morning. Such is the personal touch here that the business’ number rings through to the owner’s mobile, even when he’s out at sea, for those wanting an update on the day’s catch.
As the road turned away from the coast, we saw that the scene inland was also spectacular, with the stunningly beautiful mountains of the Seaward Kaikōura Range rising sharply, Mt Fyffe standing proud.
Cruising into Kaikōura, the vast number of motels and hotels lining the highway were a telling sign of the draw of this whale-watching hub.
We drove our plug-in Toyota to the end of the esplanade at Point Keen to find snoozing seals at the edge of the carpark. From here the Peninsula Walkway leads up across the hills to a viewpoint, but we agreed we would save that for another day. Like the seals, it was time for us to recharge.
Story by Fiona Terry for the Spring 2024 issue of AA Directions Magazine. Fiona Terry is a freelance writer who regularly contributes to AA Directions magazine.
Explore more from AA Directions magazine while you're here:
- Follow in the footsteps of Captain Cook on a luxurious Fiordland cruise.
- Discover Project Jonah's role in rescuing marine mammals along our coastlines.
- Find out why menopause is a topic that deserves discussion.
