The first stop on our road trip is a golden onion.
Not your usual landmark, perhaps, but in Whangārei, atop the iconic Hundertwasser Art Centre, the vegetable is transformed: a golden dome, a beacon of creativity, a symbol of artistic intent – and a great place to start an adventure.
With the days growing longer and warmer, I’ve enlisted my sister for a five-day journey chasing the shimmer of Northland’s coastline and culture. We’re travelling in a brick-orange GWM Tank 300, an SUV with all the modern accessories, including a sunroof and suspension that makes the two-hour journey from Auckland a breeze.
Visiting the Hundertwasser Centre in Whangārei is a must-do on a Northland road trip.
Whangārei’s Hundertwasser is hard to miss. With vibrant colours, extensive mosaic tiling and irregular shapes that curve and spiral, the building is a towering tribute to the late Austrian artist Friedensreich Hundertwasser’s organic style. We take our time meandering through the gallery, perusing the Wairau Māori Art Gallery and climbing to the forested rooftop to overlook the town basin, white yachts dotting the glassy blue.
A quick lunch and a stroll around the Whangārei shops and then we’re back on the road, cruising our way to the Tutukākā Coast. The glittering coastline here is often touted as one of New Zealand’s best – starring Matapōuri, Whale Bay, Sandy Bay – serving as the entry-point for scuba divers headed to Poor Knights Island. Unfortunately, the weather has turned; as we pass the beaches, rough winds chop the waters into grey and white foam.
The GWM Tank 300 makes for a comfortable road trip driving experience. Photo by Emily Draper.
Housed behind the famous dive shop, Lodge 9 is the perfect place to park up; modern amenities, bright open spaces and a large communal area obviously designed to cater for large groups of divers. We grab a delicious woodfired pizza from the nearby Marina Pizza before turning in for the night.
Glorious sun. When we wake, the birds are drying their feathers, and the sky is quiet and clear. As we wind our way northwards, the coast seems to breathe a sigh of relief: turquoise waters laps languidly on the warm sand.
We reach Paihia in an hour and a half, zipping through the township to the Waitangi Treaty Grounds. Our tour begins with a cultural performance at the upper marae, before visiting Busby House, the museums and Ngātokimatawhaorua, the 36m ceremonial waka. We pause here, taking a moment to feel the significance of the land, the weight of our shared history.
Back in Paihia we make our way to the wharf, nabbing a table at Charlotte’s Kitchen to enjoy lunch with a view over the harbour before boarding the Russell ferry.
Beachfront in Kororāreka Russell. Photo by Emily Draper.
Originally a Māori settlement, Kororāreka or Russell became a base for European traders, whalers and seafarers. We explore some of this rich and often turbulent history, visiting Pompallier Mission and the bullet-marked church, followed by a quick jaunt up Flagstaff Hill and an afternoon refreshment on the veranda of the Duke of Marlborough Hotel. We opt for fish tacos at laid-back Hone’s Garden before we board the ferry back to Paihia, chasing the last ebb of disappearing light.
Could there be a better start to the day than a run along the flat promenade of Paihia’s waterfront? Not unless you chase those exercise endorphins with post-plod eggs and orange juice at Zane Grey’s Restaurant and Bar, reclining in one of the large loungers on the sun-drenched pier. Post-breakfast, we snake our way to Matai Bay, the northernmost point of our travels. Now firmly in Doubtless Bay territory, the shift from the busier Bay of Islands is palpable – the roads quieter, houses few and far between. The road leading to Matai Bay beach turns to gravel, our tyres kicking dust into the air.
The beach is breathtaking – golden sand, pristine waters, and largely uninhabited. Scampering over the dunes, we lay down our towels and run into the surf, whooping and giggling as the sea claims our long-wintered bodies. The first swim of the summer, and it’s set the bar high for the rest of the season.
The famous Mangonui Fish Shop. Photo by Emily Draper.
Our stay tonight is in the village of Mangōnui, one of the oldest ports in Aotearoa. Our accommodation, Mangōnui Waterfront Apartments, is a self-contained unit in a sparkling white villa, boasting views over the harbour from the private balcony. From here, we peruse the nearby boutiques and galleries, culminating in fresh oysters at local restaurant Jesse’s on the Waterfront, chased by delicious mouthfuls of buttery, falling-apart fish at Mangōnui’s iconic fish and chip shop. We watch a group of teenagers take turns jumping off the wharf into the blue below, their squeals and splashes punctuating the still, early summer air.
Saturday morning and it’s time to trickle back down the coast, stopping briefly at Rainbow Falls in Kerikeri and then on to Packhouse Markets to soak up the bustling atmosphere. Here, we find fresh food, a five-piece ukelele band and artisan stalls of all varieties – clothing, carvings, coffee beans – even psychic readings.
Mere minutes down the road we find the Stone Store, New Zealand’s oldest intact stone building. The surrounding gardens are in bloom, the air sweet with florals. We’re tempted to grab a cold lemonade and join the people reclining on the grassy riverbank, but we have places to be, rejoining the road back down country towards the Tutukākā Coast once more. This time, the weather is in our favour and we enjoy panoramic vistas. We aren’t stopping here, however – our destination for the night is the beach town of Ruakākā.
The Stone Store is New Zealand's oldest surviving stone building. Photo by Emily Draper.
We park up at Ruakākā Beach Front Motel and take an afternoon stroll along the golden sands, watching the lifesaving club run drills and young families play in the surf.
Our final night on the road calls for a celebratory meal, driving 20 minutes to Waipu’s highly-recommended The Cove. The hospitality is warm, the food delicious and our table offers us views out to the nearby park, where, as the sun sets, two fire-jugglers are creating mesmerising rings of dancing light in the inky dark. We watch from inside, captivated, satiated, relaxed, and in no way ready for the return home.
Story by Emily Draper for the Summer 2024 issue of AA Directions Magazine. Emily Draper is a contributor to AA Directions magazine.
Explore more from AA Directions magazine while you're here:
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- Step inside a woodworker's rustic, handcrafted home.
