Soak it up at Ōpuke Thermal Pools, Methven

From afar, the foothills of the Southern Alps lurk behind a roiling quilt of cloud. As we drive further up scenic SH77 toward Methven, the clouds disperse to unveil the steep banks of Mt Hutt, a winter mecca for skiers.

The locals, led by Dave Dynes knew a long soak in some hot pools, along with a massage and a meal, would be a great way to relax after a day on the road or vigorous outdoor activities. What’s more, it would help turn Methven into a year-round destination, not just a winter attraction.

The snag was there are no thermal springs in the district, despite the best efforts of drilling companies and water diviners. “There was nothing but cold water,” says Dave. Then came the idea of using solar power. That idea turned into a dream that became a reality: the opening of the Ōpuke Thermal Pools and Spa last year.

Ōpuke Thermal Pools in the heart of Methven. Photo by Lisa Cane.

The entrance to the new spa replicates a walk up the Rākaia Gorge, as it narrows and then opens up. Above, the steep slopes of Mount Hutt loom, while a line of tall trees provides shelter from the prevailing winds.

As we are drawn toward the glass entrance, we spot some of the 500 solar thermal collectors discretely screened behind a landscaped bank. We head for the family-oriented Discovery Pools, which have exceptional water clarity and a temperature of 37ºC. The gentle current in the large pool nudges us around as underwater jets help sooth sore spots.

An infant shows his total delight with excited cries and a broad grin. In another pool, some boys have commandeered the water gun and take turns shooting each other with jets of water. Our adults-only option is the warmer Tranquility Pools with a swim-up bar, where people enjoy canapés and beverages; others soak in wooden hot tubs.

We wrap ourselves in thick white robes and head for the spa. My partner enjoys the soft fragrances of the Aroma Lux Massage while I have an Escale Beaute Facial, a treatment that stimulates the complexion and takes a decade off my age, or so I’m told. We relax afterwards with refreshing green tea. 

All the water for the Ōpuke Thermal Pools and Spa is glacial melt water sourced from the Rangitata River, via a diversion race a kilometre away. The solar thermal collectors are the primary water heating system. “Our solar array can meet all of our pool heating loads, even on the shortest day in winter,” says engineering consultant James McKenzie, who shows us around.

When the complex is shut, the water is stored in large tanks, to minimise heat loss and stop anyone contemplating an illicit evening swim. Heat pumps powered by hydro-electricity make up any shortfalls during cloudy periods and evening sessions, James explains. He tells us the water treatment system refreshes the water at a higher rate than would normally be used and the water is filtered through special fine, golden sand to ensure it is exceptionally pure and clear.

An email booking system means there is a maximum of 50 people in the Tranquility Pool and 140 in the Discovery Pools at any one time. Bookings are for two-hour sessions but can be extended.

Sunset at Ōpuke Thermal Pools and Spa. Photo by Lisa Cane.

The idea for the complex resonated with the Methven community for years but gained momentum when Methven Adventures was formed in 2016, by which time Dave was no longer involved. “The reality and the vision are very close,” he reports, adding that the $15 million project was completed following a funding injection through the Government’s Provincial Growth Fund.

Other businesses have seen opportunities presented by the opening of the spa, too. Mount Hutt’s ski season extends from mid-June to the end of October and has a new express chairlift transforming access to various runs. It’s not just for skiers and snowboarders, either. Many people have a lot of fun on snow trikes.

While aprés-ski entertainment has always focused on The Blue Pub in Methven, we call in for coffee at the Topp Country Café established by the famous musical twin, Lynda Topp. Later, it’s dinner at The Dubliner Irish Bar and Restaurant located in the former Methven post office.

As we leave Methven and drive toward Christchurch, we turn on to Rākaia Terrace Road. It’s the longest straight, level and totally deserted stretch of country road I have driven in New Zealand for years. A line of telephone poles meets the road on the horizon in a perfect vanishing point. It’s an ideal contrast to end our time in Methven.

• AA Directions has two passes to the Ōpuke Thermal Pools and Spa to give away. Click here to enter.