50 Fabulous Finds

Tokatoka Peak, Wairoa River, Kaipara

Tokatoka Peak pokes its head up from the horizon from many vantage points along State Highway 12. It’s hard to miss and very tempting to climb – which is relatively easy until a steep, short section at the very top. It takes about 20 minutes. You’ll be rewarded with views of the northern Wairoa River, which locals call ‘The Big Muddy’. Take Tokatoka Rd north of Ruawai, near Dargaville, and look for the ‘scenic reserve’ sign.

Second Thoughts Collectables, Te Aroha

Second Thoughts Collectables is run by a bloke named Pete who has a special interest in vinyl LP records from the ‘60s, ‘70s and ‘80s, and a wealth of knowledge about the Kiwi music scene from that era. The second-hand vinyl sold here is almost all in excellent condition and priced honestly, according to condition. And it’s all good stuff. As well as the quality vinyl, you’ll also find a ton of pop culture literature and mid-century curios in stock so, if that’s what you’re into, it’s worth a visit.

St Mary’s Church, Tikitiki, East Cape

While you should watch the road on the sharp corner at Tikitiki, East Cape, don’t drive past St Mary’s on the hill overlooking the hairpin bend. The carved archway over the gate is a clue to the riches hidden inside this outwardly unremarkable wooden church. Built in 1924, it’s both a memorial to local Ngati Porou lost in World War I and a celebration of Maori decorative arts. From the windows to the ceiling to the baptismal font, it’s a riot of carving and weaving, thanks to an initiative by Sir Apirana Ngata, who’s memorialized by the marble obelisk outside.

Tunnel Beach, Otago

Geological upheavals and restless seas have shaped the bays and inlets of the Otago coastline. At Tunnel Beach, 20km south of Dunedin, you’ll see the workings of both man and nature.

John Cargill, a man of substance, felt the need to hide the recreational activities of his daughters from Dunedin’s common folk. In the 1870s, he commissioned the tunnelling of a hole to a secluded beach so his daughters could picnic there, safe from prying eyes.

Today, you too can descend through Cargill’s tunnel and enjoy this enchanting beach.

Te Hapua, Parengarenga Harbour, Northland

Te Hapua is New Zealand’s northern-most village. Its sand dunes are so white and fine it’s like walking through icing sugar, and most of New Zealand’s godwits gather here, in late March, to feast, before they fly to Siberia. The Ratana Church is in the heart of Te Hapua.

Castle Hill, Canterbury

You don’t have to take our word that a detour to Castle Hill is worth your time: in 2002 the Dalai Lama declared it the Spiritual Centre of the Universe. It’s hard to quibble with an endorsement like that. Taking its name from the behemoth limestone boulders that resemble the long crumbled ruins of an imposing castle, the hill is a favourite with rock climbers who boulder up and over the stones. Fans of the Narnia films like to visit the location of one of the climactic battle scenes.

Brook Waimarama Sanctuary, Waimarama, Nelson

Just five kilometres from Nelson’s CBD, the Brook Waimarama Sanctuary is an ambitious project to create a fully-fenced, 700ha area of native bush (to be the second largest pest-free fenced sanctuary in New Zealand) for the re-introduction of natives like kiwi, tuatara and kakapo.

Inside the centre is a giant 3D map, with irresistible buttons to push. Correlating lights show parts of the proposed sanctuary. There are also exhibits of the native birds the area proposes to provide a haven for – with more tempting buttons to push to hear the sound of their call.

Jerusalem, Whanganui River, Whanganui

Maoritanga and Catholicism intertwine at Jerusalem (Hiruharama) on the banks of the Whanganui River.

For over a century the site has been a base for the Sisters of Compassion, who built a convent, orphanage and school for the local Maori community in 1892. They were joined by throngs of hippies in the five years following 1969, when poet James K Baxter led his commune there.

A windy, one and a half hours’ drive from Whanganui, Jerusalem is not exactly a quick detour, but it’s worth it to spend a night in the open dormitory of St Joseph’s Convent. For details go to compassion.org.nz

Stonehenge Aotearoa, Carterton, Wairarapa

This modern spin on England’s mysterious prehistoric monument has been specifically adapted for the Pacific and calibrated to chart our celestial movements. It is a fully functional, albeit old-school, observatory. Open 10am-4pm Wed to Sun; guided tours are on weekends and public holidays.

Shalfoon & Francis Museum, Bay of Plenty

There’s a wealth of paraphernalia in this fine heritage store – at 12 Church Street, Opotiki. Cross-cut saw blades, pit saw handles, hand-forged bridge spikes and kerosene wick lamps jostle for space alongside biscuit tins, glass lolly jars, liquorice straps and hand-cranked telephones. George Shalfoon was manning the vast kauri slab counters and ringing up the antique cash register until he retired in 2001, at the age of 83. Now it’s a fascinating, nostalgia-rich museum.

Wingspan National Bird of Prey Centre, Rotorua

Having a falcon perched on a leather gloved hand is quite an experience. Wingspan is the National Birds of Prey Centre devoted to the preservation of native raptors. There are a number of rescued birds on display indoors, and daily outdoor free-flying demonstrations of the New Zealand Falcon. This is a rare opportunity to see these magnificent birds at close quarters.

Collectamania, Ohaupo, Waikato

Ohaupo Antiques has gorgeous Art Deco light shades, antique glassware, vintage dolls and early advertising. There is automobilia and brewery-ana for men’s sheds, and Victorian kitchen-alia for heritage cuisine queens. Jane Daly, owner, truly knows quality collectables.

The store is laid out spaciously in group categories and feels more like a collecting great-aunt’s large lounge than an antique shop. Jane’s favourite area is Victorian sewing tools, with its toy sewing machines, porcupine pincushions, silver measuring tapes, hem clamps and button hooks.

Ruapekepeka Pa, Towai, Northland

The site of the last battle in the north in 1845-46 is also special because of the cunning defence system built by chief Te Ruki Kawiti – much of which you can see hints of in the landscape. One of Kawiti’s cannons remains and the earthen defences of the advanced British position are also still visible.

Ruapekapeka Historic Reserve is between Whangarei and Kawakawa – download a site guide from ruapekapeka.co.nz or pick up a copy at the car park before walking 15 minutes to the pa.

Kuriheka, Otago

In the 1880s, Colonel Joseph Cowie Nichols built a stately home on a large sheep station 20 minutes drive south of Oamaru.

Today the 27-room mansion is out of bounds, but a drive through the grounds of Kuriheka provides an interesting diversion.

An inveterate collector of things military, Colonel Nichols liked field guns, which he positioned strategically around the grounds. The estate’s outbuildings are of a quality rarely seen in New Zealand and include huge stables built in the German Gothic style.

Kahutara Taxidermy Museum, Kahutara, Wairarapa

‘Tararua Ted’, as John McCosh is affectionately known, is recognized as one of New Zealand’s leading practitioners of taxidermy. He houses the results of his pastime in a rustic log cabin which you are welcome to visit. On display in his gallery are many local birds, insects and animals, but the real stars are the more exotic beasts – including a lion, a tiger and an alligator. Open by appointment only.

Dargaville Museum, Kaipara

Dargaville Museum has an eclectic collection of curios and artefacts showcasing our earliest maritime adventures, charting the area’s kauri gum rush and even laying down a wonderful working model train set. A highlight is the collection, in its music room, of over 90 accordions. The exhibit features a figurine collection, early sheet music, rare recordings and – the gem – an accordion made of kauri.

Tolaga Bay Wharf, East Cape

We may not be able to walk on water, but a stroll out to sea along the longest wharf in the Southern hemisphere might be the next best thing. The 660m trek to the end of Tolaga Bay Wharf takes about half an hour. It’s not unusual to have the wharf to yourself.

Waikari Rock Art, Canterbury

The South Island climate made life difficult for early southern Maori; they spent much of their time in survival mode, hunting and fishing. Yet these people were inspired to express themselves in artistic form, evidence of which can be found on the smooth underbelly of limestone outcrops. Take the trail, over paddocks, from Waikari town.

Viands Bakery, Kihikihi, Waikato

Viands Bakery is famous for its pies. It’s twice winner of the New Zealand Supreme Pie competition, and with 4,500 entries from 444 bakeries these are wins worth celebrating. It has a large selection, including seafood and vegetarian. The cold fruit pies are fabulous, too.

Antiques @ Tirau, Tirau, Waikato

You’ll have seen the corrugated iron sheep on the way into town? Head across the road to Antiques@Tirau for the real treasure in this town. There’s a room dedicated to art deco, art nouveau and Victorian light fittings, royal memorabilia, a collection of box cameras, crystal glasses, vintage children’s toys – including a miniature Singer sewing machine – and jewellery dating from as far back as the 1880s.

Chronicle Glass, Whanganui

We watched a glassblower at work over the furnaces – molten glass, a blowpipe, a blob rolled on cold steel, a puffed-cheeked blow and then the blob becomes a glass bubble and the basis of a bowl. Magic!

Chronicle Glass has plenty of glass-blowing action; with 40 glass artists in the area, the two kilns are usually fired up. It’s also a great place to invest in fine glass art.

Reptile Park, Warkworth, Rodney

How often do you get to see a tuatara, a family of chameleons or, if you look closely and with patience, 13 different types of New Zealand lizards? There are also 16 turtle and tortoise species, alligators and exotic Malaysian lizards – which closely resemble dragons – and New Zealand’s only reptile park, on the road between Whangateau and Leigh, north of Auckland.

Te Waimate Mission, Waimate North, Northland

This Heritage New Zealand property in Waimate North (20 minutes drive from Kerikeri, on Te Ahu Ahu Rd) was built in 1832 by Anglican missionaries on New Zealand’s first farm, set up to introduce Maori to European agricultural methods. Wandering through the rooms of the beautiful Georgian house, furnished with missionary period furniture and tools, is a calming experience – such is the serenity of the place. The grounds are lovely, too, and perfect for picnics – ideally with wicker baskets, cushions and home-made lemonade.

Haddad Menswear, Otorohanga

Not much has changed since brothers Karam and John Haddad opened Haddad Menswear in 1965. The brothers still hang measuring tapes around their necks and regularly wrap them around a manly girth or across a set of rural shoulders. Haddad work gear and outdoor clothing must fit well; a real man must be comfortable.

Kerosene Creek, Rotorua

Rotorua’s formerly best-kept secret, set in native bush and complete with its own little waterfall, is a beauty of a spot for soaking in thermal water and stunning scenery. It’s a natural spring, so don’t put your head underwater. And it’s a bit tricky to find. Look for Old Waiotapu Rd, between Rotorua and Taupo on SH5; drive two kilometres on that unsealed road to a car park then walk 200 metres along the stream.

Curling, Naseby

This is the only indoor curling rink in the Southern hemisphere; it has four 46m long ‘sheets’ where up to eight people can play this combination of bowls, chess and billiards. Though the polished granite stones weigh 20kg, it’s all about sliding them towards the target ring, so even children and people in wheelchairs can play, using sticks; strategy is more important than strength. Special shoe covers keep you on your feet and, if you’re escaping from a blistering Central Otago day, there are warm clothes for hire, too.

Morere Hot Springs, Nuhaka, Hawke’s Bay

Morere Springs Scenic Reserve, south of Gisborne, has stands of nikau palms interspersed with ferns, lichens, orchids and epiphytes that give it a ‘goblin forest’ ambience. The grounds are well set up for picnics; visitors can also take bush walks before or after soaking in a thermal pool. Three bush tracks climb up through the rainforest and, by prior arrangement with the office, you can take a trek and then go directly to the enchanting Nikau Pools, nestled amongst towering palms.

Kororareka Oyster Farm, Russell, Bay of Islands

A mint green shed is home to Kororareka Oyster Farm. Owner Alex Clifford has been an oyster farmer most of his life and keeps the oyster shop open all year round. On Fridays he also smokes mullet and sells fresh flounder, as well as oysters in pots, half shells or in full shells. He’s happy to chat, as you sit on the front deck looking out over Orongo Bay eating the juiciest, creamiest oysters in town.

Cromwell’s Heritage Quarter, Cromwell, Central Otago

When the rising waters of Lake Dunstan began lapping at Cromwell’s former main street, a group of determined locals got together to save what they could. Hauling schist remains to higher ground, they gradually created a charming historic village.

The traffic-free main street, cobbled courtyards and stone alleyways of the Cromwell Heritage Precinct is still run by volunteers, 25 years on

Historic displays in some buildings illustrate the Central Otago gold rush of the 1860s. Others house art galleries, gift shops and cafés.

The little-known village is tucked away by the lakeshore behind a residential area.

Frog Rock, Canterbury

About 70km north of Christchurch, on the road to Hanmer, a giant amphibian-like rock sits next to the road. Travellers can stop nearby and take the 100m walk up onto the frog’s back.

Otatara Pa, Taradale, Hawke’s Bay

Wooden palisades, carved pou (memorial posts) and a carved gate greet visitors to Otatara Pa. On an hour-long walk you’ll see the remains of terraces, dwelling sites and food storage pits – and will, undoubtedly, sense the deep cultural significance of the site: it is one of New Zealand’s largest pa sites and also one of the oldest. Plus, there are great views from the top – to Napier, across to Cape Kidnappers and, on a good day, even to Mt Ruapehu.

Ohau Waterfall, Kaikoura, Canterbury

Nestled in the bush 27km out of Kaikoura, along SH1, is Ohau Waterfall – a playground for seal pups, which are often seen frolicking in the fall’s pool during the winter months.